Bo Kluea means salt well, and the name is the whole story. In a narrow mountain valley close to the Laotian border, ancient springs push up brine from deep underground, and for centuries villagers have boiled it down in shallow pans over wood fires to make salt. They still do. The salt was once traded far into the hills and across the river to Laos, and the village was an important stop on the caravan routes. Today the brine wells sit beside the road, surrounded by stalls selling the grey-white crystals, along with local honey, dried mushrooms and woven cloth. Chiang Klang is the nearest large town, thirty-five kilometres back.
The ride here is the reward. Highway 1081 climbs from Pua over a high ridge, then descends into the valley in a series of long curves, with views of terraced fields and misty ridges. The road is narrow in places, with steep drops and occasional gravel, and it is quiet, so take your time and enjoy the silence. In the cool season mornings are cold, with mist lying in the hollows until nine or ten, and the temperature can fall to ten degrees. In the rainy months, expect slippery surfaces and the occasional small landslide.
Bo Kluea is home to Hmong and Mien villagers as well as Thai Lue, and the village has a gentle, rural pace. The Nan River begins as a stream not far above here, and its water is clear and cold. In the evening, you may see families boiling salt at the springs, the steam rising into the dusk. A small homestay or guesthouse will usually give you dinner, with rice, vegetables from the garden, and fish or pork cooked over charcoal.
There is limited fuel in the village, so fill the tank in Pua before you climb, and bring spare water and a few snacks. The area is far from any hospital, so ride carefully, and tell someone where you are going. The end of the ride, at a stall with a cup of strong local coffee and a view across the valley, is among the finest in northern Thailand. Come in November or December, when the rains have gone and the sky is clear.