The Blue Lakes are a group of karst lakes in the Cherek Gorge, south of Nalchik, and the most famous of them is a hole in the ground filled with water the colour of turquoise. The lower lake, called Tserik-Kel in the local language, is a nearly round sinkhole, and it is said to be one of the deepest karst lakes in the world, with a vertical shaft going down to depths of several hundred metres. The water is astonishingly clear and cold, with a constant temperature of about nine degrees, and its blue colour comes from sulphur compounds and fine particles. Divers have explored the shaft, and the lake has an almost hypnotic quality, especially on a sunny morning when the light penetrates to the sunken tree trunks on the sides.
There are several other lakes in the group, including smaller ones that are greener or milkier in colour, and some are rich in hydrogen sulphide, which gives them a smell of rotten eggs. The local people believe the lakes have healing properties, and in summer you will see families picnicking by the shore. The area is a protected natural monument, and swimming is generally not permitted, so take photographs instead.
The road to the lakes is a short detour from the Nalchik highway. It runs up the Cherek Gorge, through villages and orchards, with rocky walls closing in, and then a smaller road leads to the lake itself. The surface is generally decent, with occasional gravel and potholes, and the last stretch is a short walk from a car park. In summer, the area is busy, with minibuses, taxis and tour groups, and the café stalls do a good trade in tea, shashlik and souvenirs. Go early or on a weekday for peace. Rain can make the road muddy, and fog sometimes hangs in the gorge.
Babugent, the nearest village, has a small shop and a few guest houses, and Kashkhatau, about eleven kilometres away, is bigger. For a full tank, you should fill up in Nalchik or one of the larger towns on the plain.
In the evening, when the crowds thin out, the lake turns a darker blue, and the silence returns. It is a remarkable place to stand and look.