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Blonduos

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Blonduos is a small town of about a thousand people on the north coast of Iceland, where the glacial river Blanda runs into Hunafloi Bay. It sits right on the Ring Road, Route 1, and is one of the few places of any size in the long, empty stretch between Borgarnes and Akureyri. The river is milky grey-green with silt from the Highlands, and it divides the town into an old and a new part.

The church stands out first, a modern concrete building completed in the early 1990s that is shaped like a volcanic crater, with a design that is quite unlike the usual white wooden Icelandic church. The textile museum, which tells the story of Icelandic wool and home crafts, is worth a visit if the weather turns bad. In the old quarter near the river there are a few wooden houses and a small harbour, and out in the bay seals sometimes bask on the rocks.

Fuel is available here, which counts for a lot. Between the towns in the north, stations are widely spaced, so fill up whenever you pass one. The town also has a swimming pool with hot tubs, a supermarket and a few cafes, so it makes a natural stop at the end of the day. After a long ride, an hour in the hot pot is as good as it gets.

On the road from Myvatn, you cross the high, open country of the north, with wide moorland, the occasional farm and views toward the sea. The surface is good, with long straights and gentle bends, but wind is the real danger, as gusts can hit a motorcycle with surprising force, particularly on exposed stretches and crossing bridges. Weather changes quickly, so carry warm, waterproof gear even in summer.

In summer, the light never really fades, and you can ride until late in the evening. Horses graze in the fields beside the road, and the local lamb and fish are worth trying. Take your time and enjoy the quiet.

Read it in a ride

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