Blenheim is the main town of Marlborough, at the north-eastern tip of the South Island of New Zealand, and the centre of a wine region that has made the country's name abroad. About twenty-six thousand people live here, on a flat plain beside the Wairau river, with vineyards stretching in every direction. Sauvignon blanc made here, with its sharp, grassy, passion-fruit character, put New Zealand wine on the world map in the 1980s, and the region produces most of the country's wine. The town has cafes, shops, fuel and supermarkets, and Picton, the ferry port, is about twenty-five kilometres north.
The town was named after the Battle of Blenheim, and the surrounding area has a dry, sunny climate with one of the highest sunshine totals in the country, which suits grapes. The Wairau Plain is a river delta, and the gravelly soil drains well, while cool nights keep the acidity of the fruit high. Many wineries have cellar doors with tastings and lunches, and as always, you should save the tasting for after the ride.
For a rider, Blenheim is the start of the long road south and west into the mountains. The Molesworth Station road, the highest public road in New Zealand at about 1,340 metres, begins in the Awatere valley a short distance south, and runs across the vast Molesworth Station, the country's largest farm, over a gravel track. It is open to the public only in summer, from around December to April, and a toll is charged. Fill up in Blenheim, and carry spare fuel and water.
The landscape on the way is dramatic: tawny hills, river gorges, snow-capped peaks and wide, empty valleys. Weather is variable, with wind, sun and sudden rain, and the temperature drops at altitude. In summer, the dust can be heavy. Expect to see merino sheep, cattle, hawks and wild goats. For breakfast, try a flat white and a pie from a local bakery, and fresh salmon from the nearby fish farms. Leave early, and plan to take your time.