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Bleik

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Bleik is a fishing village on the north-west coast of Andøya, the northernmost of the Vesterålen islands, and it is famous for two things: a long, white beach and a small, steep island just off it. The beach is wide and pale, with dunes behind and a sea that, in summer, glows an improbable turquoise, though the water is bitterly cold. The island, Bleiksøya, rises straight out of the sea like a loaf of dark bread, and in summer it is home to a huge colony of puffins, along with kittiwakes, razorbills and many other seabirds. Boat trips run from the village to see the puffins up close, and it is one of the great wildlife experiences in northern Norway.

Behind the village the mountain slopes rise, and a path climbs to a viewpoint with a wide look over the sea and the island. It is a short walk, and a good one. The village itself is small, a few dozen houses scattered along the coast, with a harbour and a few places to eat. In the summer the midnight sun gives light all night, and the beach is a fine place for a late evening walk. In winter it is a dark and wild place, with storms and northern lights.

The road to Bleik leaves the main route and runs down to the coast through low, open country, with mires, small lakes and a wide sky. It is easy riding, with a good surface and gentle bends, but the wind is a constant factor, and gusts across the open ground can be strong. Traffic is light. Rain and mist arrive fast, and in autumn the roads may be wet and slippery. A long road trip on Andøya is a pleasure for those who like space and light.

Andenes, at the northern tip of the island, is the nearest town, with about 2,800 people, and has fuel, shops and restaurants. It is also the base for whale-watching safaris, which go out to see sperm whales in the deep water just off the coast, a unique thing in Europe. Myre, to the south, has services as well. Pack warm clothes, and book boat trips in advance in summer, as they fill up. The puffin season runs roughly from May to August, and the birds leave in late summer.

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