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Big Sur Bixby Bridge

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Bixby Creek Bridge is the best-known single structure on California's coast, a pale concrete arch spanning a deep canyon where the road crosses from one cliff to another. It was completed in 1932, a graceful open-spandrel arch about seventy-nine metres above the creek, and it was built to end the isolation of Big Sur, a stretch of coast so rugged that until the road came, residents relied on the sea or mule tracks. The whole of Highway 1 through Big Sur was finished in 1937, after years of work, some of it by convict labour, and it remains one of the great engineering achievements of the American West.

The view from the north side, where a pull-out allows a good look, shows the bridge with the Santa Lucia mountains behind and the Pacific below, with fog often drifting through the canyon. It is among the most photographed spots in America, and in summer the pull-out is crowded, with cars parked at odd angles, so watch for pedestrians stepping into the road. Big Sur is mostly wilderness, with redwood canyons, golden grassland and cliffs falling straight to the sea, and wildlife includes California condors, which have been reintroduced and can sometimes be seen soaring above the ridgelines.

Riding this stretch is a classic, but it requires attention. The road twists constantly, with tight bends and blind corners along the cliff edge, and the drop-offs are steep. Slow-moving traffic often blocks the way, and passing opportunities are limited, so patience helps. Fog can roll in quickly, bringing damp pavement and reduced visibility, while rockfall and slides are common in winter and spring, and parts of the road have been closed for long periods after damage, so checking Caltrans before you go is wise. The best time is early morning on a weekday, when the light is soft and traffic low.

Big Sur village, further along, has a few stations, restaurants and lodges, but they are busy and costly. Carry water, warm layers and a little patience. The scenery, however, deserves it, with sea mist, the smell of eucalyptus and sage, and the Pacific stretching out to the horizon.

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