Biescas sits in the Aragonese Pyrenees at the lower end of the Tena valley, where the Gállego river cuts through the foothills and the mountains close in. It is a small mountain town with stone houses and slate roofs, set among meadows and pine woods, and with the high peaks of the Tendeñera range standing behind it. The sense is of a place at the doorstep of the high Pyrenees, a base for skiers in winter and walkers and riders in summer.
The town carries a sombre memory. On 7 August 1996, a flash flood tore down a dry ravine into a campsite nearby, killing eighty-seven people, mostly holidaymakers, in one of the worst natural disasters in modern Spanish history. A memorial stands near the site, and it is a quiet reminder of the power of mountain storms. Safety measures have since been added, but summer thunderstorms in these valleys can still be sudden and fierce.
North of Biescas, the road follows the Gállego up through Panticosa and Sallent de Gállego, near the ski resort of Formigal, and then climbs to the Portalet pass, at about 1,800 metres, on the French border. The road is good, with long curves, rock walls and fine views of high peaks, and in summer the meadows are alive with cattle and flowers. The weather changes fast, and snow can fall at any time except high summer. The pass is usually open all year but may be closed briefly after heavy snowfall.
To the east, the valley of Ordesa and the Monte Perdido massif lie within reach, and form one of the great national parks of the Pyrenees, with deep canyons, waterfalls and limestone walls. Around Sabiñánigo, small Romanesque churches of the Serrablo region, with distinctive square towers, are tucked into the hills, and they are worth a short detour for anyone interested in early medieval art.
Fuel is available in Biescas and in the larger town of Sabiñánigo, and further up the valley at Sallent. Restaurants serve hearty mountain food, with lamb, mushrooms and cured ham, and there are cheerful cafes in the square. Bring a warm layer even in summer, because the air cools quickly in the evening.