Biei is a small farming town in the middle of Hokkaido that has made its living from being looked at. Its fame comes from the hills around it, the rolling patchwork of crops that stretches to the Tokachidake range, and from a few specific photogenic sights, including a pond so blue it looks fake. The Blue Pond was created by accident, after dams were built to protect the area from mudflows from the volcano, and the water is coloured by minerals suspended in it, mainly aluminium compounds that scatter the light. It shifts from milky turquoise to deep sapphire depending on the weather and the angle of view, and in winter it is lit up after dark.
The town itself is modest, with a central street, a small station built of local stone, and shops that sell vegetables, cheese and jam. Its greatest asset is a bakery culture and a love of fresh produce, and the potatoes, tomatoes and sweetcorn here are among the best in Japan. Cafes and restaurants serve farm-to-table meals, and the dairy is excellent. For a hearty meal, curry made with local vegetables or a plate of Hokkaido-style grilled lamb, known as Genghis Khan, is a good bet. There is also a hot spring area in the hills to the east, Shirogane Onsen, with a waterfall nearby that falls over a cliff in a graceful white veil.
For riders, Biei is a hub for exploring the hills. Smooth roads run north and south of the town, often with light traffic, and long views over the fields toward the mountains. The surface is excellent, the bends are gentle and the scenery is a constant. In summer there are lots of tour buses, rental cars and cyclists, so patience is needed, and the speed limits are low. The ride up to Shirogane Onsen and beyond to the Tokachidake slopes is a rewarding climb into forest and volcanic landscape, with steam rising from vents and a feeling of being close to something alive.
The town is easy for practical matters. Fuel stations are on the main road, convenience stores are open late, and there is a good choice of places to stay, from small inns to farm guesthouses. Asahikawa, about twenty-two kilometres away, has the airport, the city amenities and an excellent zoo. Roads in winter are icy and snow can fall from November to April.
The best months are July and August for flowers and green hills, and September for golden wheat and clear air. A morning ride through the hills, with mist lying in the hollows, is the high point of the whole region.