Bicheno is a small fishing village on Tasmania's east coast, built around a tiny harbour known as the Gulch, where fishing boats shelter behind a rocky breakwater. The town has a quirky, cheerful feel, with a blowhole that spouts when the sea is rough, rock pools full of life and the island of Diamond Island, which you can walk to at low tide. The sea here is clear and cold, and the marine reserve off the coast teems with fish and sea life, making it a favourite of divers.
At dusk, little penguins, the smallest penguins in the world, waddle up the beach to their burrows, and guided tours run in the evening, giving you a close look at them. The birds are sensitive to light and noise, so follow the rules and avoid using a flash. In the past Bicheno was a whaling station, and the town has a good collection of historic buildings, along with a handful of cafes and pubs serving fresh seafood.
The Douglas-Apsley National Park, just north, protects dry eucalypt forest and a deep river gorge, with waterholes where you can swim in summer. The road toward Freycinet, to the south, passes beautiful beaches and bays, and Wineglass Bay is only a short ride away. Bicheno has a fuel station and a supermarket, so it is a sensible place to fill up, though opening hours are limited.
The riding on the Tasman Highway is relaxed and scenic, with long, easy curves and sea views, and the surface is generally good. Summer traffic can be heavy, and wildlife is an issue, especially at dawn and dusk, when wallabies and pademelons cross the road. The weather can change quickly, and cold southerlies can blow in off the Southern Ocean, so pack a warm layer. In the early morning, with the light on the water and the smell of kelp in the air, it is a lovely place to be.