Here the forest gets closer to the border, and the history in the air gets heavier. For centuries this was a royal hunting ground, preserved by Polish kings and Lithuanian grand dukes and later by the Russian tsars, who made it one of the best-protected game reserves in Europe, and it was this protection that kept the forest alive.
One famous event took place on the Belarusian side. In December 1991, in a hunting lodge in the forest, the leaders of Russia, Ukraine and Belarus signed the agreement that dissolved the Soviet Union. A forest that had survived tsars and wars had a part in the end of an empire. On the Polish side, the traces of the border are more mundane but also visible, with fences, patrol vehicles and the discreet infrastructure of a frontier that has become tense in recent years.
The population here is an unusual mix. Many villagers belong to the Orthodox Church and speak a local dialect with Belarusian roots, and the wooden village churches, with onion domes and blue and white painting, stand beside meadows. Hajnówka, the main town of the district, has a strong Orthodox character and an Orthodox church of striking modern design. The food is simple and rich, with potato pancakes, mushrooms and dairy.
Riding on the minor roads here is a gentle pleasure, with straight stretches through the trees, occasional bends and little traffic. The surface can be rough in places, and the shaded roads stay damp and mossy in the mornings. Animals are a hazard, particularly at dusk, and the forest swallows mobile phone signals in places. Because of the border, there may be checkpoints and restricted zones, so carry identification and follow instructions.
Fuel can be found in Hajnówka, around twenty-seven kilometres from this point, and you should fill up there. Białowieża village has shops and cafes, but no reliable fuel.
Autumn is a splendid season, with golden leaves and rutting bison, though the mist can be thick. Summer brings mosquitoes, so keep covered when you stop.