Across the Dordogne from Beynac stands another castle, Castelnaud, and for much of the Hundred Years War the two stared at each other like rival boxers: Beynac held by the French, Castelnaud by the English, with a river valley between them and frequent raids in both directions. Beynac's fortress sits on the edge of a limestone cliff about a hundred and fifty metres above the water, with the village tumbling down the slope beneath it in tiers of honey-coloured stone. Richard the Lionheart is said to have held the castle in the twelfth century, which fits the local habit of attaching the biggest names to the oldest stones.
The village is small and steep, with narrow lanes, cobbles and an ever-present view of the river below. It earns its place among the most beautiful villages in France, and in summer it fills with visitors. A walk up to the castle is a stiff climb, and the reward is the view from the ramparts across the valley, with canoes drifting on the green water, walnut groves and fields of maize and the rooftops of Castelnaud on the far side. The interior has been restored and furnished, so you can see how a fortress was actually lived in.
Riding the Dordogne here is a pleasure at moderate speed. The D703 follows the river along the foot of the cliffs, with gentle bends, good surface and constant glimpses of water and rock, and the traffic, in summer, is steady and slow. If you want to enjoy the road, ride early or late, or visit in May, June or September, when the light is soft and the roads quieter. In July and August, expect queues at the pinch points and a parking squeeze in the village, and leave the bike below and walk up. After heavy rain the river can flood the low-lying road, and the cliffs sometimes drop rocks.
This is the Périgord Noir, a land of walnut oil, truffles, duck and foie gras, strawberries in season, and a strong local liking for lunch. Cafés and restaurants are plentiful in the village, though prices reflect the view. Fuel is best found in Sarlat-la-Canéda, about eight kilometres away, a lovely medieval town with supermarkets and stations. Smaller villages along the river have bakeries and a few shops, but for a full tank, plan to stop in a larger town.