Betty's Bay lies about midway along Clarence Drive, a scattering of low houses between the mountains and the sea, and it is the part of the coast where nature takes over. It lies within the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO-recognized area that holds one of the highest concentrations of plant species anywhere on earth, with fynbos shrubs such as proteas, ericas and restios covering the slopes in a bewildering variety. In spring, the colors are wonderful, and in winter the mountains are sharp with cloud and rain.
The town is most famous for its penguins. At Stony Point, a short walk along a boardwalk leads to a colony of African penguins, which nest among the rocks and bushes with Cape cormorants and rock hyraxes for company. The birds are endangered, and the colony here is one of the few on the mainland, so it is worth watching quietly and keeping a respectful distance. Nearby, the Harold Porter National Botanical Garden climbs a stream valley behind the beach, with waterfalls and walking paths beneath the cliffs, and is a very pleasant stop.
For a rider, Betty's Bay is the heart of the drive. The R44 continues along the foot of the mountains, with the sea alongside, passing coves and rocky points and, from August to November, whales cruising offshore. The road is wide and well surfaced, with gentle bends and long views. Wind can be strong, especially in summer when the south-easterly blows, and sea mist rolls in on cool mornings, reducing visibility. It is a good road for a relaxed run rather than a hard ride.
Facilities are modest. The village has a small shop and a handful of cafes and guesthouses, but fuel is not reliably available, so top up in Gordon's Bay before you set off or continue to Hermanus or Grabouw. Weekends can be busy at the penguin colony and the garden, and a modest entrance fee applies at both.
Plan a slow day. The place rewards walking, watching and a long lunch, and the light in the late afternoon turns the mountains a deep gold.