Far up the Chatkal valley in western Kyrgyzstan, where the river runs between the Chatkal and Sandalash ranges of the Western Tien Shan, lies the Besh-Aral State Nature Reserve. It protects mountain steppe, juniper woodland, walnut and apple groves and rocky high country, and it is part of the transnational World Heritage Site of the Western Tien Shan, inscribed in 2016 and shared with Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan. The reserve was created in particular to protect Menzbier's marmot, a small marmot found only in this part of Central Asia.
The Chatkal valley is remote even by Kyrgyz standards. It is cut off from the rest of the country by high passes, and for much of the year the only road access is over a pass that is closed by snow in winter. The few villages in the valley live from herding, farming and, increasingly, gold mining. The landscape is wild and beautiful: green valleys, snowy peaks, rushing rivers and wide open spaces with yurts in summer.
Getting there is a serious undertaking. The roads into the Chatkal are mostly gravel and dirt, with steep climbs, hairpins, river crossings and rockfall. The passes are high, above 3,000 metres, and weather can change quickly, with snow possible even in summer. The season is short: roughly from June to September, the passes are usually open, but check locally before setting out. A dual-sport bike, good tyres and a reliable tool kit are essential.
Within the reserve, access may require permission, and some areas are strictly protected. Wildlife includes snow leopards, ibex, argali, bears and many birds of prey, though most are shy and hard to see. The marmots are easier: listen for their whistles and look for them standing guard by their burrows.
Fuel and services are very limited in the Chatkal. Carry enough fuel for long distances, plus spare, and be prepared to buy petrol from local sellers in bottles. Food and accommodation are available in homestays in some villages, where you will be offered bread, tea, kumis, fermented mare's milk, and meat. The hospitality is genuine, and the experience of riding through such a remote valley is one of the great adventures of Central Asia.