Out on the edge of the Merv oasis in southeastern Turkmenistan, where irrigated fields fade into the sand of the Karakum desert, stand the ruins of buildings known as koshks. These were fortified mansions of mud brick, with heavily ribbed walls that look like giant corrugated cardboard, built in the early medieval period by the landed gentry of Merv. Besh Agyz, which means five mouths, is one of them, and it is part of the UNESCO listing of the Silk Roads, alongside the vast ruined cities of Ancient Merv, a World Heritage Site since 1999. Merv was for centuries one of the great cities of the Islamic world and a key stop on the routes between China and the Mediterranean, until the Mongols destroyed it in the thirteenth century.
The ruins are fragile, eroded by wind and the occasional rain, and their sheer size and isolation give them a haunting beauty. At Merv itself, the mausoleum of Sultan Sanjar, a twelfth-century Seljuk ruler, rises over the plain with its great dome, and the walls of successive cities stretch for kilometres. The desert light at sunrise and sunset is extraordinary, turning the mud brick pink and gold.
Riding in Turkmenistan is a serious undertaking. Entry with a vehicle requires visas, permits and often a guide, and rules can change without notice, so research carefully and plan well in advance. The roads range from new highways to broken tarmac and sand tracks, and police checkpoints are frequent. The climate is extreme: summer temperatures can exceed forty-five degrees, while winter nights can drop below freezing. Spring and autumn are the most comfortable times to visit.
Bayramaly, about thirty-five kilometres away, is the nearest town, with fuel and basic services, and Mary, the regional centre, is a little further. Fuel is cheap, but quality can vary and stations may be far apart, so carry spare fuel and plenty of water. Turkmen cuisine is hearty: plov, rice with meat and carrots, shashlik and fresh bread from the clay ovens. Be respectful of local customs, and always ask before taking photographs of people.