Besakih is the Mother Temple of Bali, the largest and holiest Hindu temple on the island, and it sits high on the southern slope of Mount Agung, the great volcano that dominates the east. It is not a single building but a complex of about twenty-three separate temples, spread across a series of terraces, linked by stairways and gateways. The split gates, called candi bentar, frame the view upward towards the mountain, and the multi-tiered thatched towers, called meru, rise in odd numbers, up to eleven roofs, each dedicated to a Hindu deity or an ancestor. The oldest parts may date back many centuries, and the complex is still in daily use for ceremonies.
In 1963, Mount Agung erupted violently, killing thousands of people and devastating much of the east of the island. The lava and ash flows came close to Besakih, and the story goes that the flow of lava stopped just short of the temple, which the Balinese regarded as a miracle and a sign of the temple's sacred protection. Whatever the explanation, the temple survived, and it remains central to Balinese religious life. During major festivals, thousands of people come in procession, carrying offerings on their heads, and the air is thick with incense and the sound of gamelan.
The ride from the south, through Klungkung and Rendang, climbs through a tapestry of terraced rice fields, palm groves and villages, with the volcano looming ahead and often hidden in cloud. The road is mostly good, with a series of bends as it ascends, but traffic includes tour buses, trucks and scooters, and the final approach is steep and busy. The best time to visit is early morning, when the mountain is clear and the temperature is cool, and clouds usually cover the summit by midday. The dry season is more reliable, and rain can make the road slippery.
Visitors should dress modestly, with a sash around the waist and covered shoulders and knees, and sarongs can be hired at the entrance. Non-Hindus cannot enter the inner courtyards, but the outer areas give a good impression. Be aware that the site has a reputation for pushy guides and touts, so agree prices clearly, or politely decline. A firm, friendly no is usually enough.
Fuel is available in towns such as Rendang and Klungkung. Bedugul, in the other direction, is farther, so plan your tank. Warungs near the temple serve simple Indonesian meals and strong coffee.