Bermamyt is a plateau that looks across the whole of the Western Caucasus, and the reason for visiting is simply the view. It lies in Karachay-Cherkessia, at around 2,600 metres, a broad, grassy upland above the valleys of the Kuban and the Malka, and from its edge, on a clear day, the double summit of Elbrus stands white on the horizon, with the long chain of the Main Caucasus Range running off to either side. It is an open, windswept place, with short grass, rocky outcrops and the stone remains of old shepherd huts, and the sky feels very close.
The people of this region are the Karachays, a Turkic mountain people who have herded sheep, cattle and horses on these slopes for centuries. The Karachay horse is a hardy breed, famous for its endurance, and you may see herds grazing on the plateau in summer. In 1943, the Karachays were deported en masse to Central Asia, and they only returned in the late 1950s, so their link to these meadows carries a deep emotional weight. Hospitality is a point of pride, and a visitor on the plateau may be offered ayran, a salted yoghurt drink, and a plate of cheese and bread.
Reaching Bermamyt is a challenge. The usual route is a rough track from the valley, climbing in steep sections, with loose rock and ruts, and it is generally done by jeep or specialist off-road vehicle in summer. Riding it on a motorcycle needs a capable machine, good skills and settled weather. Fog and thunderstorms can come within minutes, and at that altitude it can be cold even in July. The window is short, from late June to September, and the track can close from the first snow.
The nearest sizeable town is Tereze, about twenty-five kilometres away, and Uchkeken is the next best, so fill up before you leave. Carry water, warm clothing, waterproofs and food, and make sure your phone is charged, though coverage may be absent.
Sit on the edge and look at the peaks. They stay in the mind long after the ride.