Belozersk sits on the southern shore of Lake Beloye, the White Lake, and it is one of those Russian towns whose age is difficult to grasp. The chronicles say that Sineus, a brother of the legendary Viking chief Rurik, ruled here in the ninth century, and while historians treat the story with care, the town has certainly been important since the Middle Ages. In the fourteenth century it was the capital of a small principality, and the earthen ramparts built then still circle the old centre.
The ramparts are remarkable, high grassy walls thrown up around the town with a ditch in front, and they are among the most impressive earthworks of their kind in Russia. They enclose a quiet area of wooden houses, churches and a museum, with the lake spreading out beyond. A small white church stands on top of the wall, and walking along the rampart on a summer evening, with the water gleaming and the town behind you, is one of the nicest things to do.
The nearby monasteries are the real draw. The Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery, a huge fortified complex beside a lake, was once one of the richest and most powerful in Russia. Even more special is the small Ferapontov Monastery, whose cathedral is covered inside with frescoes painted around 1502 by the master Dionisy, in glowing, delicate colours of blue, pink and white. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and the paintings have survived in remarkable condition. They are worth the ride from almost anywhere.
The roads here are quiet and open, running through forest and fields with views of the lake. Surfaces vary, and there are patches of rough asphalt and gravel on the smaller roads. Traffic is light, but trucks use the main route, and the occasional cow or horse can wander onto the road in the villages. The Volga-Baltic waterway, a canal system linking the Volga to the Baltic, passes nearby, and long barges move slowly along it.
Belozersk has fuel, shops and a few cafés, and the local speciality is fish from the lake, especially smelt, which are caught in great numbers and fried or served in a clear fish soup called ukha. Summer is short and green, with long evenings, while autumn colours arrive in September, and winter freezes the lake solid.