Belokurikha is a spa town tucked into the northern foothills of the Altai, in Altai Krai, and it has the sort of relaxed, slightly old-fashioned atmosphere that comes from a century of people arriving to get well. The thermal water here is naturally warm and contains radon, a trace of radioactivity that doctors in the Soviet era believed to be healing, and sanatoria sprang up along the hillsides. About fifteen thousand people live in the town, and in summer many times that number arrive for treatment, rest or just fresh air.
The setting is pretty. Forested hills close in around the town, pine and birch on the slopes, with a small river threading through, and above it all rises Mount Tserkovka, which is reached by a chairlift. In winter the slopes become a modest ski area, and in summer people ride up for the view over the foothills toward the Altai ranges. The air has a resinous smell that comes from the pines, and on warm afternoons the town feels almost Alpine.
The area is also rich in prehistory. Not far to the south, Denisova Cave in the Altai has become one of the most important archaeological sites in the world. A tiny finger bone found there led to the identification of a previously unknown human relative, the Denisovans, who lived in Asia tens of thousands of years ago and interbred with our own ancestors and the Neanderthals. The cave can be visited in summer, and its quiet, dim chambers are an extraordinary place to think about deep time.
For a rider, the roads around Belokurikha are quiet and pleasant, rolling through farmland, forest and low hills with views of the mountains ahead. The surface is generally decent, with some rough patches and frost damage in spring. In summer, the traffic increases on the main road to Gorno-Altaysk, and the Chuya Highway lies beyond. Cattle and horses sometimes graze near the road, and watch for deer at dusk.
The town has fuel stations, supermarkets, cafés and plenty of hotels, which makes it a comfortable base. Local honey is excellent, and the area is known for herbal teas and pine nuts. Late spring and early autumn are the best times, with warm days and cooler evenings, while winter brings snow and a modest ski season.