Bellingham is the last substantial city before the Canadian border, a place of eighty-five thousand people on a sheltered bay in the north-west corner of Washington state. It is a university town, with a lively cafe and brewing scene, a revived waterfront, and the kind of outdoorsy, independent character you find in many Pacific Northwest cities. The old Fairhaven district, a Victorian district with brick buildings and bookshops, is a nice place to wander, and the ferry terminal for Alaska sits at its edge.
The mountain looms over everything. Mount Baker, a glacier-covered volcano of over ten thousand feet, stands to the east, and on clear days the white cone fills the horizon. It is one of the snowiest places on Earth, and in the winter of 1998 to 1999 the ski area on its flank set a world record for snowfall in a single season, with over a thousand inches. The Nooksack River runs down from its glaciers, and the valley below is full of dairy farms, berry fields and small towns.
The Mount Baker Highway begins here and runs about fifty-seven miles east, first across the flat farmland of the Nooksack valley and then, beyond the village of Glacier, climbing into deep forest of cedar, hemlock and Douglas fir. The road is well paved, with easy bends and a few tighter sections, and it follows the river through a gorge before ascending toward Heather Meadows. The final section is closed in winter, usually reopening in summer after the snow clears, so check conditions. Rain is frequent, even in summer, and cloud often covers the upper mountain, so be ready for wet roads.
Fuel and food are easy in Bellingham, and it is wise to fill up, because the services on the highway are limited to the villages of Deming, Maple Falls and Glacier. The Pacific Northwest is famous for coffee, and the city has many independent roasters, so a good cup is never far away. Spring and early summer bring waterfalls, and September and early October are often the best time, with stable weather and fewer visitors. Take a warm layer for the top, where the air is cool even in August.