Bellagio sits on the tip of the peninsula that divides Lake Como into its two southern arms, and it has the confident look of a place that has been admired for centuries. Steep stepped lanes run down to the water between old stone houses, and the waterfront is lined with cafés under arcades. Ferries cross from here to Varenna, Menaggio and Cadenabbia, and their horns echo off the mountains. The surrounding hills rise sharply, and on a clear day the Alps stand white at the head of the lake.
The town's grand villas are part of the story. Villa Melzi, with its landscaped gardens by the water, and Villa Serbelloni, on the headland above, were built by wealthy families in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries when Lake Como was fashionable among aristocrats and writers. The gardens are open to visitors at certain times, and the views over the water from the paths are among the best on the lake. Silk was the local industry for generations, and the scarves and ties sold in the shops are a reminder of it.
The ride to Bellagio from Como or Lecco is slow and scenic. The road along the lake, narrow and twisting, passes through villages and tunnels, and traffic can be heavy in summer. A better approach is the ridge road above, which climbs through woods and gives long views over the water. Near the top is the Madonna del Ghisallo, a small chapel that has become the patron shrine of cyclists, filled with racing jerseys and bicycles. It has a small museum and a view of the lake, and motorcyclists are just as at home, with fewer legs to tire.
For practical matters, Bellagio is small and parking is tight, so look for the car parks above the town and walk down. Fuel is available at Mandello del Lario, about nine kilometres by the lake road, and in the bigger towns of Lecco and Como. Cafés and restaurants line the waterfront, with lake fish such as perch and missoltini, dried shad, appearing on local menus. Prices are high on the front, so walk a few streets back for better value.
Evening light is the best. When the day-trippers leave, the town slows down, and the water glows in the low sun. If you can, stay on the lake late and ride back in the dark with the lights of the villages reflecting on the surface.