Bellagio sits at the end of a long peninsula where Lake Como splits into two arms, in a spot so well placed that the Romans and then the Milanese noble families all wanted a villa here. It is a town of steep stone lanes, stepped alleys lined with shops and cafes, and houses in warm yellow and ochre with green shutters. The waterfront is a line of arcades and terraces, with boats coming and going and a view across the water to the mountains. It is often called the pearl of the lake, and for once the cliche is not too far off.
The two grand attractions are the villas. Villa Melzi, with its landscaped gardens by the water, was built in the early nineteenth century for an official of Napoleon's Italian republic, and the Villa Serbelloni on the headland above the town has terraced gardens with views over both arms of the lake. The silk industry was important in the region for centuries, and the town still has shops selling silk scarves and ties, as well as wood carvings and local honey.
Getting here by bike is half the fun. The road from Lecco or Como up the peninsula, the SP583, is narrow, twisting and in places very steep, with a couple of tight stretches where buses and cars have to squeeze past each other. The surface is generally good but the road is busy, particularly on summer weekends, and the lake views come in glimpses between the trees and walls. Early morning is best, and a weekday in spring or autumn is a joy. From Bellagio you can also take a car ferry across to Varenna, Menaggio or Cadenabbia, which makes it a natural hub for loops around the lake.
Services are plentiful but expensive. There are restaurants of every kind, from simple trattorie serving fried lake fish, perch and risotto, to very formal dining rooms. For fuel, it is better to plan ahead, since the town is small and on a narrow peninsula. The larger town of Mandello del Lario, across the water on the eastern shore and famous for the Moto Guzzi factory, is the reference point in the data, and the roads around Lecco and Como have more stations.
Parking in Bellagio is tight and mostly paid, so arrive early or park at the edge of the town and walk down. The best time to see the town is in the evening, when the crowds on the waterfront thin out and the lights on the lake begin to come on.