Belén is a small plaza on the south side of Cusco's centre, with a church that dates from the colonial era and a neighbourhood that has long been home to potters and tradespeople. Like much of the city, it was built on Inca land, and the name recalls the hospital and chapel of Bethlehem that the Spanish founded for the care of the sick. The church is modest by Cusco's standards, but its location, away from the busiest tourist streets, gives it an everyday air that many visitors miss.
The street layout here is a good example of the city's ancient grid. Narrow lanes run between high walls of fitted stone, many of which are Inca in origin, and the colonial houses add wooden balconies and tiled roofs on top. Walk even a few minutes and you pass a tiny chapel, a bakery, an open door with a loom or a pottery wheel and a dog asleep in the sun. The locals are friendly and happy to point you toward the next place of interest.
Motorcycles here need patience and light hands. The streets are narrow, steep and cobbled, with uneven stones that shake a laden bike, and wet weather makes them slick. Taxis and minibuses leave little room, and you will often find yourself reversing for oncoming vehicles. Keep your speed down, watch for the steps and gutters at the edge, and park only in a secure place, since theft can be an issue. Altitude takes some energy, so give yourself time at the start of the day.
Fuel is at the stations on the wider avenues to the south and west, a few minutes away. For something to eat, simple restaurants offer lunch menus of soup, a main course and a drink at modest prices, and the nearby streets have many bakeries. If you want to see how Cusco's craftspeople work, a small workshop visit can be arranged through local guides.
Early morning, when the city is quiet and the stones are cool, suits this corner best.