The belfry of Saint-Éloi stands alone, which is odd for a church tower. It was originally attached to the church, but after fires and rebuilding in earlier centuries, a street was cut between them, and the tower became a separate landmark. Today it is one of the belfries of Belgium and France listed by UNESCO, and its carillon plays tunes across the centre of Dunkirk, including a local song. You can climb to the top for views over the port, the city and the North Sea.
Dunkirk's name is known around the world for the events of May and June 1940, when more than three hundred thousand Allied soldiers were evacuated from the beaches and harbour under fire, in Operation Dynamo. Ships of all sizes, including fishing boats and pleasure craft from England, crossed the Channel to rescue them. The city was badly damaged during the war, and much of the centre was rebuilt afterwards. The Dynamo museum tells the story, and the beach at Malo-les-Bains, with its long promenade and villas, is a place to reflect on what happened there.
Dunkirk also has one of the liveliest carnivals in France. For weeks before Lent, crowds in fancy dress, many men dressed as women, parade through the streets singing, and at the climax the mayor throws smoked herrings from the balcony of the town hall to the crowd below. It is loud, wet and joyful.
The riding around Dunkirk is flat and open, with the wind blowing straight off the sea. The roads are straight and often busy, with heavy traffic around the port and industrial zones. Inland, the countryside of French Flanders is a patchwork of fields, canals and villages with Flemish names. To the south, the Monts de Flandre, a line of small hills including Mont Cassel, rise above the plain, with winding roads and views; Cassel, a hilltop town with a windmill, is a lovely stop. Further along the coast, Bergues, with its walls and belfry, is worth a visit.
Dunkirk has fuel, supermarkets and many restaurants. Try the local specialties: potjevleesch, a cold terrine of meats in jelly, or moules-frites, washed down with a local beer. The wind here never seems to stop, and rain blows in off the Channel at short notice. Climb the belfry on a clear day, and you may see the white cliffs of England on the horizon.