In the hills of south-eastern Senegal, near the border with Guinea, the Bedik people live in villages perched on rocky hilltops, reached by steep paths through the bush. Their round huts with tall conical thatched roofs, clustered closely together, and their traditions of masks, initiation and seasonal festivals have survived because of their isolation. The Bedik country around Bandafassi is part of the Bassari Country: Bassari, Fula and Bedik Cultural Landscapes, listed by UNESCO in 2012, along with the lands of their Bassari and Fula neighbours.
The landscape is a mix of savannah, wooded hills and river valleys, at the edge of the Fouta Djallon highlands that rise across the border in Guinea. It is greener than most of Senegal, especially in the rainy season, and wildlife is still found in the area, particularly in the nearby Niokolo-Koba National Park, one of the largest protected areas in West Africa. Nearby, near the village of Dindéfello, a waterfall plunges from a cliff into a cool pool, a popular spot for a swim after a hot ride.
Visiting the Bedik villages is a matter of respect. Go with a local guide, who can introduce you to the village chief and explain customs, and ask before taking photographs. In the villages of Iwol and others, the visit may involve a fee that supports the community. Festivals, often held around the beginning and end of the rainy season, are spectacular, but are primarily for the community, not tourists.
The riding here is rough and rewarding. Kédougou, the regional capital, is reached by a long paved road from Tambacounda, and from there, roads to the villages and the waterfall are a mix of tarmac, laterite and dirt tracks, dusty in the dry season and muddy, slippery and sometimes impassable in the rainy season from about July to October. Heat is intense, especially from March to June, and riding should be done in the early morning or late afternoon. A dual-sport bike is ideal.
Kédougou, about twenty-seven kilometres away, is the only real base, with fuel, shops, markets and guesthouses. Carry plenty of water and some food, and fill the tank before setting out. Gold mining has transformed the region in recent years, bringing traffic, trucks and change. In the evening, in Kédougou, try a plate of yassa, chicken or fish marinated in lemon and onions, or mafé, a rich peanut stew, the classic dishes of Senegal.