At 10,947 feet, Beartooth Pass is the highest point on the Beartooth Highway, and the top of the road in every sense. The summit is a broad saddle of bare rock and tundra, with a pull-off, a plaque and a view over the Absaroka and Beartooth ranges that goes on until the air gets hazy. The peaks that give the range its name stand to the north, their jagged granite spires said to resemble bears' teeth, and snowfields cling to the shaded slopes well into summer.
The road to the pass is one of the best mountain rides in the United States. From Red Lodge the highway climbs in a series of long switchbacks to the plateau, with steep drops and no guard rail in places, and the views over the valley widen with every hairpin. Over the top, it winds along open ridges to the Wyoming border and down toward Cooke City and the northeast entrance of Yellowstone. It took years of work to build, and it opened in 1936. The surface is generally good, though frost damage and patches of gravel are common, and sudden hailstorms can turn the road greasy. Traffic is light early in the morning, heavier by midday, with plenty of motorcyclists and campers.
The seasons rule everything. The road is typically open from around Memorial Day to mid-October, but snow can close it at almost any time, and even in July you may find ice on the road. Weather changes fast, so a clear morning may turn to freezing rain by afternoon, and lightning is a real danger on the open tundra. The thin air can make newcomers breathless, so take it easy and drink water.
Wildlife is part of the scene. Mountain goats and bighorn sheep appear on the rocks, and grizzly bears roam the surrounding country, so never leave food out. Small lakes dot the plateau, and the wildflowers in July are spectacular.
Red Lodge, about thirty kilometres below, is the place to fill up, and Cooke City on the far side has limited supplies. Carry layers, gloves and a rain jacket, and give yourself time. The pass is not a place to hurry.