The Bear Mountain Bridge, opened in 1924, was the longest suspension bridge in the world at the time of its construction and the first to span the Hudson south of Albany. It leaps across the river at its narrowest and deepest, between the steep granite flanks of Bear Mountain on the west and Anthony's Nose on the east, and the setting is dramatic: dark cliffs, a wide gleaming river, forested hills layered one behind the other. A toll is collected, and motorcycles pay like everyone else.
The bridge has some quirks. The Appalachian Trail, which runs all the way from Georgia to Maine, crosses the Hudson here on the walkway, and at about a hundred and twenty feet above sea level, this is the lowest point on the whole trail. Hikers cross beside the traffic, and the Bear Mountain Inn, a stone-and-timber lodge nearby, is a favourite stop. Fort Montgomery, just across the river, has the ruins of a Revolutionary War fortress that tried to stop the British from sailing up the river in 1777, and failed.
For a rider, the pleasure is in the approach. From the west, Route 9W curves along the river with a steep rocky slope on one side and sudden views of the water on the other. From the east, Route 9D or Route 6 climbs through the Hudson Highlands, with stone walls and woodlands. The bridge deck itself is a metal grid that hums under the tyres and can be slippery when wet. Take it slowly, and keep to the middle of the lane, as the grating can feel odd under a bike.
Perkins Memorial Drive, on Bear Mountain, climbs to a stone tower on the summit with a view over the river, the Highlands and, on clear days, the Manhattan skyline. The road is narrow, twisty, and closed in winter. Plan a stop on the western side for coffee, then walk to the lookout on the bridge approach for a photo. Autumn is the season, when the whole valley turns russet and gold, though weekends are busy.