Applecross sits on the western edge of the peninsula, facing the Isle of Skye across a narrow strait, and it is the kind of place that the long road to reach it makes you appreciate. The village is a scatter of white cottages along a sheltered bay, with a church, a small shop, a walled garden and, famously, an inn on the shore that serves seafood to riders who have just survived the pass.
The history goes back a long way. In the seventh century a monk named Maelrubha crossed from Ireland and founded a monastery here, and for several centuries it was a centre of learning and faith, with the area known as a sanctuary. The name of the village is a corruption of an older Gaelic name meaning the mouth of the river Crossan, and the remains of early Christian stones can still be seen in the churchyard. Later, the peninsula was cleared of many of its people, and the empty glens are a reminder.
The ride to Applecross from the pass is a long, steep descent, with tight bends and a view of the sea ahead, and the road continues along the coast, with the coast road to the north. The coast road is a single-track route with passing places, winding along the shore through small settlements and past beaches of pale sand, with wide views over the Sound of Raasay. Many riders choose to leave by the coast road and make the whole peninsula a loop. Traffic is generally light, and the road is in reasonable condition.
Nature is exceptional. The shoreline holds seals, otters and a range of seabirds, with sea eagles occasionally seen overhead. The air is clean, with a smell of salt and seaweed, and the evening light on the sea, with Skye beyond, is memorable. The area is famously mild for its latitude, thanks to the Gulf Stream, which is why the walled garden thrives.
Applecross has an inn, a shop and a small number of places to stay, but it is a remote community, with larger towns far away. Portree, on Skye, is visible across the water but a long way by road. Book ahead in summer, and enjoy the quiet.