The name means the Pass of the Cattle, and for centuries that is exactly what it was: a drovers' track up and over the Applecross peninsula, along which cattle were driven to market. The modern road keeps more of that character than you might expect. It climbs from sea level at Tornapress to 626 metres in a tight, steep ascent, much of it single track, with passing places, blind corners and gradients that touch twenty percent on the signs. At the bottom, a warning notice advises that the road is not suitable for learners, large vehicles or caravans, and it is meant seriously.
This is the best mountain road in Britain, many riders would say, and the reason is its drama. The first section winds up a glacial valley through boulders and heather, and then the road reaches a sequence of steep hairpins that hug the hillside, with the drop a few feet away and little protection. On top, the land is a bare plateau of wet rock and peat, often in cloud, and the car park is a scrap of tarmac with a panoramic view across the Inner Sound to the islands of Raasay and Skye, with the jagged Cuillin ridge on the horizon, if the weather allows. Often it does not, as the pass can be wrapped in mist and rain even when the coast is sunny, and gusts of wind are common.
Ride it with patience. Single-track etiquette matters: pull into passing places on the left, and wave on those coming the other way. In summer, it can be slow, as tourists in hire cars inch up, and early morning or evening are better. The surface is generally sound but can be greasy, and in winter the road is closed when snow arrives. Sheep and the occasional red deer wander across, and golden eagles sometimes soar over the corrie.
Lochcarron, on the eastern side, is the safe place to fill up. The descent to Applecross village takes you into a sheltered bay, where a famous inn serves local seafood and is the usual reward for riders. Midges are fierce in still, damp evenings of summer, so consider carrying repellent.