The Bealach na Bà, the Pass of the Cattle, is a road that makes a mountain feel like an event. It climbs from near sea level at Tornapress on Loch Kishorn to about 626 metres, and then drops to the village of Applecross on the coast, and in between it manages an ascent steeper than almost any other in Britain. The name tells you its origin, because for centuries drovers used the route to bring cattle over the mountains to market, and the road built in the early 1820s followed that old path. It is a single-track road with passing places, with gradients of around one in five on the steep sections and four hairpin bends near the top, and the signs at the bottom politely advise that it is not suitable for learners, large vehicles or caravans.
The scenery is dramatic. The pass runs through the Applecross peninsula, a wild area of red sandstone mountains, corries and lochs, and from the summit you look out over the Inner Sound to the islands of Raasay and Skye, with the Cuillin ridge on the horizon on a clear day. On a bad day, cloud wraps around the top and the road disappears into a grey wall. The weather here is Atlantic, with rain, wind and sudden sun, and conditions on the pass can be quite different from those at the foot. In winter, snow can close the road for days, and it is best avoided when it is icy.
Riding it is a mixture of delight and care. The climb is a sequence of tight hairpins, with a surface that is generally good but can be rough and wet, and the road is narrow enough that you must watch for oncoming cars, cyclists and walkers. Use the passing places to let others by, and give a wave. Sheep and deer are often on the road, and the drop on the outer edge in places is considerable. Take the hairpins in a low gear, and brake before the corner, not in it.
The nearest places for fuel are Lochcarron to the south and Gairloch or Kyle of Lochalsh farther afield, so fill up before you come. Mobile reception is poor, so tell someone your plan.
The reward at the top is a view, a cup of tea in a lay-by and the quiet that follows when the last car has gone.