Bayinbuluke is a vast, high grassland basin in the Tian Shan of Xinjiang, around two and a half thousand metres up, and the second largest grassland in China. The Kaidu River winds across it in great loops, and in evening light it looks like a silver snake draped over an emerald carpet. The Torghut Mongols graze their sheep and horses here, and herds of yaks and cattle dot the slopes.
The Duku Highway, which runs from Dushanzi in the north to Kuqa in the south, is one of the great mountain roads of China. It crosses the Tian Shan range over passes above three thousand metres, with hairpins, snow sheds, canyons and wide plateaus. This part, around Bayinbuluke, is smooth and fast, and the road is wide, but weather changes fast. Cold wind, rain, even snow can arrive on a summer afternoon, and the road is closed in winter, usually from around November until spring, so check the dates carefully.
Bayinbuluke also hosts a swan reserve, home to whooper swans and other birds that nest in the marshes in summer. The nine bends of the Kaidu River, seen from a viewing platform, are one of the region's iconic sights, and sunrise and sunset are the best times to see them. Mongol yurts are scattered across the plain, and some offer tea and basic food to visitors.
A reminder for riders: as in the rest of China, foreigners cannot simply ride here with their own bikes, and you will need a licensed operator and the right permits. Fuel and food are available in Bayinbuluke town and in the larger centres on either side, but distances are long, and services are sparse between. Carry water, warm clothing and a good map, because phone signal can disappear for hours at a time.