Bastia has always been the working port of Corsica. Genoa made Bastia the island's capital for centuries, until 1791, and the town retains a busy, slightly rough charm that is quite unlike Calvi's polish or Ajaccio's grandeur.
The place is a hub: ferries arrive from Nice, Marseille, Toulon and Livorno, and the road north leads round the Cap Corse peninsula, one of the finest coastal rides in Europe. The town also has a good market, narrow streets and a big church, Saint-Jean-Baptiste, whose twin towers dominate the old port. In the evening, the quayside cafes fill with locals, and the smell of coffee and the sound of voices make it a fine place to sit.
For riders the key is how to get out. The road south along the east coast is straight and busy, and the best way to the west is across the island, either through the Col de Teghime to Saint-Florent or via Ponte Leccia and the Col de Vergio. The traffic around Bastia can be heavy, especially at ferry times and in summer, so an early start is worth it. The Calanche of Piana, a tangle of red granite cliffs above the Gulf of Porto, is far to the south-west and demands a long, twisty day, but it is a spectacular reward.
Fuel is no problem. Bastia has stations, supermarkets and plenty of places to eat, though it is wise to fill up before heading into the mountains, where stations are scarce. Local specialities include charcuterie, fiadone, a lemony cheesecake, and Cap Corse wine.
Linger an hour by the old port at the start or end of the day. Watch the boats come in, drink a coffee, and let the island's rhythm slow you down.