It is country that is more water than land for half the year, a mosaic of mangroves, mudflats, paperbark swamps and open grassy plains cut by creeks that rise and fall with the monsoon.
The landscape here is dominated by two seasons. From about November to April the wet season brings towering thunderstorms and flooded plains, with roads closed by water and the humidity close to unbearable. From May to October the dry season arrives, the floodwaters retreat, and the wetlands concentrate vast numbers of birds, including magpie geese, jabirus and egrets, in the shrinking billabongs. Crocodiles, both freshwater and the much bigger saltwater species, live in the rivers and are not to be underestimated. Never walk near the water's edge in the Top End, and take any warning sign seriously.
The riding in the region is largely along two main routes. The Arnhem Highway runs east from Darwin to the entrance of Kakadu National Park, and from there the Kakadu Highway runs south past the visitor centre at Jabiru, the wetlands of Yellow Water and the rock art sites at Ubirr and Nourlangie. Both roads are well-surfaced and straight, so the main challenges are heat, road trains and the constant risk of wildlife on the bitumen, especially buffalo, wallabies and feral pigs at dusk. Burning in the late dry season creates smoke haze, and the Aboriginal custodians of the land have managed the country with fire for tens of thousands of years, giving the landscape its mosaic character.
Kakadu is jointly managed by the traditional owners and the national parks service, and it is listed for both its natural and cultural values. Fuel and food in the region are available at Jabiru, Cooinda and a few roadhouses along the highway, but they are far apart, so top the tank before entering the park and carry plenty of water. Park entry requires a pass, which can be bought at the gate or online.
Check locally for current road conditions and closures, particularly in the wet.