West of Valencia, the river Turia leaves the mountains through a series of deep gorges, and around the villages of Gestalgar, Sot de Chera and Chulilla, the landscape turns dramatic: limestone cliffs, pine-covered slopes and the river winding green below. In a side ravine near Gestalgar, the Barranco de las Colochas shelters a handful of painted panels that UNESCO counts among the Mediterranean rock art of Iberia. The figures are faint, but the setting is worth the effort on its own.
Chulilla, a few kilometres upstream, has become famous among rock climbers, who come from all over the world to climb its limestone walls. The village, crowned by the ruins of a Moorish castle, is the starting point for a walk through the Turia gorge that crosses two suspension bridges, known as the hanging bridges, built over the river for the construction of a canal. Sot de Chera, a tiny village in a side valley, has a geological park with rock formations and a river beach where locals swim in summer. The surrounding hills are covered in pine and holm oak, with rosemary, thyme and lavender scenting the air.
The roads here are twisting and narrow, following the river and climbing over the hills, with little traffic but plenty of gravel, sharp bends and sometimes loose rocks. Routes link Chiva, Gestalgar, Chulilla and Bugarra, with views of the gorges, and further west the roads climb into the Serranía, a high, sparsely populated region with pine forests and stone villages. Summer heat is intense, and storms can bring flash floods in autumn, when the region can receive torrential rain in a short time.
Fuel is available in Chiva and other larger towns along the main roads, while small villages may have limited services. Gestalgar and Chulilla both have places to eat, where the menu runs to paella valenciana, which here traditionally includes chicken, rabbit and beans, and gazpacho manchego, a hearty stew of game and flatbread. Bring water and sun protection, as the walks to the shelters often involve exposed paths.