Behind Alicante and its beaches rises a line of bare, grey mountains, and the Cabeçó d'Or is the tallest of them, a ridge of about twelve hundred metres that shows its pale cliffs from the city. The Barranco de la Cueva runs through its foothills, inland from El Campello, in country of dry gullies, pine woods and abandoned almond terraces. It is a wild place for a spot so close to a city of three hundred thousand people.
A short distance away lies Busot, a small town with one of Spain's most spectacular show caves, the Cuevas de Canalobre. A huge central chamber, many metres high, is filled with stalactites and rock formations that look like the branches of a candelabra, which is what canalobre means in Valencian. During the Spanish Civil War the cave was used as an air-raid shelter and storage place, and today it hosts concerts and exhibitions. It is open daily, and on a hot day the cool air inside is a pleasure.
The painted shelters in the area belong to the Levantine tradition of rock art, small red human and animal figures on limestone. They form part of the group UNESCO inscribed in 1998. Many are hard to find without local knowledge, and some are on private land or fenced, so look for information at the town hall or tourist office before you set out.
For motorcyclists, the best approach is from Alicante by the road toward Xixona, which climbs into the hills with a series of curves and views back toward the coast. Xixona, known in Spanish as Jijona, is famous for turrón, the almond and honey nougat that is eaten across Spain at Christmas, and a couple of shops will let you taste before buying. The road beyond rises to the pass of La Carrasqueta, at about a thousand metres, with fine views in both directions. Surfaces are generally good and the corners are well banked.
In summer the heat is severe and the coast is jammed, so go early. Autumn and spring are lovely, with long clear days. El Campello, twelve kilometres away, is the nearest large town, and has fuel, supermarkets and seafood restaurants. Take plenty of water for the walk.