Between the towns of Alcoy and Gandia, the mountains of the northern Alicante province fold into a tangle of narrow valleys, and the barranc, the ravine, of the carob trees is a dry gully among them, a few kilometres from the villages of Planes and Beniarrés. The carob, or garrofer in Valencian, is a dark, leathery tree that has grown here for centuries, and its long brown pods were once used as animal feed and sweeteners. The land is rugged limestone, laced with terraces now mostly abandoned and covered in pines and rosemary.
Rock shelters line the ravine, and the Abric del Garrofero, like others in this country, belongs to the prehistoric painting tradition that spread through the Mediterranean mountains of Spain. Alicante has some of the most important sites, with schematic figures, deer, goats and archers, and the group is protected by UNESCO. As with all such sites, access can be restricted, so ask in the village.
The valleys also carry a Moorish past. After the Christian conquest of the thirteenth century the Muslim population stayed on, farming terraces and building irrigation channels, until the expulsion of the moriscos in 1609 emptied the valleys. Some villages here, such as those of the Vall de Gallinera, are famous for their cherry orchards, which blossom in late winter and cover the slopes in white. The Beniarrés reservoir, a long green lake, fills one of the valleys. Alcoy, the main town of the area, is known for its April festival of Moors and Christians, with elaborate costumes and mock battles.
The riding is engaging. The CV roads through the Serra de Mariola and the valleys wind through pine and oak woods with plenty of bends, steady climbs and good views towards the sea, which glitters in the distance on a clear day. The Coll de Rates, on the road down to the coast, is a classic viewpoint above Callosa d'en Sarrià. Traffic is light, except near Alcoy at weekends, and surfaces are variable, so watch for gravel after rain. Winter can bring frost and fog, and summer is hot, so ride in spring or in the autumn.
Muro d'Alcoi, with eight thousand people, is the nearest town of any size and has fuel and cafes, and Cocentaina and Alcoy are bigger. Xixona, a short drive away, is the home of turrón, the almond nougat eaten at Christmas, and the local anise liqueurs and cherry spirit make a good gift.