Benilloba is a tiny village in the Comtat, the mountainous district north of Alcoy in the province of Alicante, with fewer than a thousand people, a church and a cluster of stone houses among olive and almond groves. The Barranc del Salt, the waterfall ravine, cuts through the hills nearby, and its first shelter is one of the many painted sites in the region that are part of the UNESCO listing of Mediterranean rock art. The Comtat and the neighbouring Alcoià are particularly rich in this heritage, with all three main styles of prehistoric painting represented: Levantine, schematic and the older Macro-schematic, unique to this small area, with large, enigmatic figures.
The landscape is rugged and beautiful. The Serra de Mariola, a natural park to the west, is famous for its aromatic herbs, used to make liqueurs and medicines, and its springs, and the Serra d'Aitana, the highest mountain in Alicante province, rises to the south. The villages are small and quiet, and the terraced hillsides tell of centuries of farming in difficult conditions.
The riding here is a joy. The roads from Benilloba to Penà guila, Alcoleja and the Aitana range climb through forests and terraces with endless curves and steep gradients, and the road over the Port de Tudons, near Aitana, is a classic. The road toward Cocentaina and Muro follows the valley of the Serpis river, with gentler curves and views of the mountains. Traffic is light, but watch for cyclists, especially on weekends, and for gravel on the corners. The weather is milder than the high plateau, but winters can be cold and snowy on the heights.
Cocentaina, about ten kilometres away, has fuel, shops and restaurants, and a castle on a hill overlooking the town. Its All Saints' Fair, held in early November, is one of the oldest in Spain, dating back to the fourteenth century. Local food includes hearty mountain dishes like olleta, a stew of beans and pork, and pericana, a mix of dried peppers, salt cod and olive oil. Alcoy, a short ride south, offers more services and a lively town atmosphere.