Between Cocentaina and Alcoy, in the hilly interior of Alicante province, a small ravine called the Barranc de Mastec holds rock shelters with prehistoric paintings, part of the UNESCO listing of rock art of the Mediterranean Basin. This corner of Spain is particularly rich in it, with styles ranging from the naturalistic Levantine figures of hunters and animals to the strange, abstract macro-schematic art that seems unique to these valleys. The ravine is surrounded by terraced olive and almond groves, pine woods and limestone crags.
Cocentaina is a pleasant town with a castle on the hill above it, a palace of the Counts and a medieval quarter, and it hosts one of the oldest fairs in Spain, held every autumn. Alcoy, next door, is an industrial city built on ravines and connected by spectacular bridges, famous for its Moors and Christians festival in April, when thousands parade in elaborate costumes and fight mock battles in the streets with gunpowder and noise. Around them rise the mountain ranges of Mariola and Font Roja, both natural parks, with forests of holm oak, pine and maple, aromatic plants used in herbal liqueurs, and springs.
The riding here is excellent. The roads around the Serra de Mariola, through villages like Agres, Alfafara and Bocairent, wind through the mountains with beautiful views and light traffic, and the climb to Font Roja through the forest is a favourite. Further south, routes towards the coast cross the mountains via passes with tight bends and dramatic drops, linking the interior with Benidorm and the Marina Alta. Expect gravel on some corners, cyclists on weekends and hot summer afternoons, while winters are mild but can bring frost on higher roads.
Both Cocentaina and Alcoy can fill your tank and your stomach. Cooking up here is mountain food: olleta, a hearty stew of beans, rice and vegetables, and pericana, a dish of dried peppers, salted cod and olive oil. Alcoy is also known for its stuffed olives and for herbero, a herbal liqueur made in the Mariola mountains. Bring water if you plan to walk to the rock shelters.