The farmer's calendar explains this country better than any history book. In late winter the almond trees of the Marina Alta bloom white and pink, in spring the carob pods begin to swell, and in early summer the loquats and cherries ripen on the lower slopes. In August the muscat grapes are laid out to dry in the sun, and by autumn the oranges are turning and the olives are ready. The Barranc de l'Infern, where this fourth group of painted shelters lies, sits in the middle of that cycle, in the Vall de Laguar and its neighbouring valleys of Alicante province.
The muscat of Alexandria grape is the speciality of the area, grown on narrow terraces, many of them built by Moorish farmers. After harvest the bunches are traditionally dried in a riurau, an open-fronted porch built onto the farmhouse so that the sun and wind can reach the fruit, and you will see these structures beside many farms. The raisins of the Jalón valley were once sent in barrels to northern Europe, and some are still exported. The sweet wine that comes from the same grape has its own character, tasting of honey and orange peel.
The painted shelter itself belongs to the Levantine tradition recognised by UNESCO in 1998, with red figures of hunters and animals on limestone walls. The people who made them lived by a different calendar, following game and seasons on foot, but it is not hard to imagine them watching the same hills.
For motorcyclists the valleys are a treasure. The roads climb through terraces to the villages, with short, sharp bends, steep gradients and some stunning views. The best season is spring, when the almond blossom and the green of the new growth give the valley its brightest look, and the second best is autumn, when the air clears and the colours deepen. Winter can be mild enough for riding, though occasional fog and ice appear at height.
Murla, the nearest village, has barely five hundred people, and Pego is the town for fuel and food, about seven kilometres away. Pack water and a snack if you plan to walk.