Castell de Castells is a village of about four hundred people at the heart of the Marina Alta's high valleys, and it is one of the most important places for rock art in the Valencian country. The Barranc de Galistero is a ravine nearby, and the shelter in it belongs to the rock art of the Mediterranean Basin that UNESCO inscribed in 1998. The village is also near the Pla de Petracos, a famous rock shelter with remarkable paintings that attracts specialists from around the world, so a day in the area can include several sites. The painted shelters are fragile and often have limited access, so check before you go.
The surroundings are wonderful. The Serrella range rises behind the village, a long limestone ridge covered with pine, and the long Bernia ridge to the east stands between the valley and the coast. The valley floor is a patchwork of almond, olive and cherry terraces, and the river runs in a gorge below the village. The smell of pine and thyme on a warm day is strong. Murla, a little further, is a small village in the Vall de Pop, which is famous for its raisins, dried in the sun on drying frames.
For a rider the Marina Alta is one of the best areas in the Valencian region. The roads are narrow and winding, with a continuous run of bends through the valleys, steep climbs to passes with sweeping views, and sudden descents to small villages. Traffic is light at most times, though weekends bring cyclists and other motorcyclists. The surface is generally good, but there are patches of gravel, and some corners are blind. Summer heat is intense, and the mountain air is a relief.
A local meal might be a rice dish with rabbit or a plate of cured meats with olives. Spring is the best season, with green slopes and mild weather, and autumn gives clear light. Winter can be cold on the passes, and mist is common.