The mountains behind Benidorm are a world away from the high-rise hotels and the beaches. Inland from the Costa Blanca, the land rises quickly into a jumble of limestone ridges, the highest of which, the Serra d'Aitana, reaches over fifteen hundred metres, the roof of the province of Alicante. Between Sella, Benilloba and Relleu, deep in this rugged country, the Barranc de Frainos holds a rock shelter with prehistoric paintings, part of the UNESCO listing of Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin on the Iberian Peninsula. The sites here are small and fragile, and access is usually limited to guided visits, but the landscape is worth the journey.
The villages are small, white and perched on hillsides, surrounded by terraces of almonds, olives and cherries. In spring, the almond blossom turns the hills pink and white. Guadalest, a short ride south, is a dramatic village with a castle perched on a rocky spike, and the reservoir below is a striking turquoise. Alcoi, to the north, is an industrial town famous for its Moors and Christians festival in April, one of the most spectacular in Spain, with parades, music and mock battles. The Font Roja nature park, near Alcoi, protects a rare forest of oaks, maples and yews on a cool mountainside.
The riding is superb, with some of the best mountain roads in eastern Spain. The road over the Port de Tudons, between Sella and Alcoi, climbs through pine forests and over a pass, with tight bends and great views. The roads around Guadalest and Confrides are also excellent, with hairpins, cliffs and views of the sea. The surface is generally good, but watch for cyclists, who love these climbs, and for gravel and loose stones. In summer, the heat can be intense in the valleys, so ride early or late.
Cocentaina, about thirteen kilometres away, is a town of eleven thousand with fuel, shops and restaurants. Sella, Benilloba and Relleu are small villages with bars and a few restaurants. Try olleta alcoyana, a hearty bean and rice stew, or pericana, a dip of dried peppers, salt cod and olive oil, served with bread. Alcoi is also known for its café licor, a coffee liqueur.