Barnstaple lies at the head of the Taw estuary, and it claims to be one of the oldest boroughs in England, with a charter said to date from the tenth century. It is the largest town in North Devon, and it is the natural start for the Atlantic Highway.
The A39, named the Atlantic Highway, runs west and south-west along the coast, passing through Bideford, Clovelly, Hartland and the Cornish border, with long climbs, tight bends and sudden views of the Atlantic. The road is good in places, rough in others, and often narrow, with high Devon hedges that hide oncoming traffic. In summer, the roads fill with holiday traffic, and the best time to ride is early in the morning or in the quieter shoulder seasons. Rain and sea fog are common, and the wind off the Atlantic can be strong on the exposed sections.
The landscape around Barnstaple is rich in story. Henry Williamson wrote Tarka the Otter here, and the Tarka Trail, a long walking and cycling route, follows the old railway along the river. Braunton Burrows, a huge dune system near the estuary, is a nature reserve with rare plants and a biosphere status. To the east lies Exmoor, with its wild red deer and open moor, which makes a fine detour.
Fuel and food are easy in Barnstaple, with large stations, supermarkets and many cafes, and it is wise to fill up here, as stations become less frequent west of Bideford. The quayside has pubs and restaurants with views over the river.
Set off early. The coast ahead rewards an unhurried pace, and the first light on the estuary is a very good start.