Barinas lies in the llanos, the great tropical grasslands of western Venezuela, at the foot of the Andes. It is a hot, flat, spreading city of three hundred thousand or more, a place of cattle ranches, rice and tobacco fields, and wide avenues lined with trees. The air is humid and heavy, and the sky is huge. This is cowboy country, and the music on the radio is joropo, played on harp, cuatro and maracas. It is also the state capital and the home region of Hugo Chávez, who was born in the village of Sabaneta nearby.
For the rider, Barinas is the lowlands anchor of one of the most dramatic crossings in South America. From here, the Trans-Andean Highway rises west toward Mérida, climbing out of the plain along the river valleys, first through the foothill town of Barinitas, then into cloud forest and finally above the tree line. The highest point, near Pico El Águila, tops four thousand metres, and in that single day you go from tropical heat to a cold, windswept páramo of frailejón plants, the silvery, furry-leaved shrubs that grow only in high Andean moorland. The first part of the climb is wide and steady, with long curves and lorry traffic, but the upper section can be narrow, steep, and wet, with thick fog and sudden cold.
You should start early, because afternoon rain in the mountains is common, and the descent into Mérida is better in daylight. Carry warm and waterproof clothes, as the temperature drop is large. Check the current road conditions before you set out. Landslides and damaged pavement are possible after heavy rains, and services are thin on the high stretch.
Fuel has been subject to shortages and queues in recent years, so plan your tank carefully, fill up whenever you can, and ask locally about availability. Barinas is large enough to have many stations, shops and restaurants, and it is the best place to prepare.
Eat something substantial before you go. The local beef is excellent, and in the llanos, they grill it over open fires. Then turn your front wheel to the mountains.