There is a moment on the way up the Vero when the road leaves the last cultivated terraces and enters a more enclosed landscape, with oak and box on both sides and the sound of water somewhere below. The ravine of Barfaluy is on that stretch, five kilometres from Alquézar, and Barfaluy IV is the fourth shelter in its series. It belongs to the Levantine rock art listed by UNESCO in 1998, and like the others it is a small painted panel on a wall of weathered limestone, probably of red figures. The ravine is the real interest, as one of the most popular short walks in the Guara.
The landscape here is a lesson in how water shapes rock. During heavy rain the streams of the sierra turn into torrents that carry stones and gravel, scouring the beds and polishing the walls into smooth, curved shapes. Between storms the same channels are dry, and you can walk in them, but the walls above show the line of the highest flood. Walkers are warned to leave the ravine if the weather turns, and local guides check the sky before they set out.
If you are on two wheels, keep to the road and enjoy the unfussy qualities of the Vero valley. The surface is moderate, the bends are sharp in places, and the traffic is light on weekdays. The road is also a favourite of cyclists, who climb it in groups, so ride with care on blind corners. In July and August afternoon heat can be draining, and a morning start is best. In autumn the early mist gives the valley a soft, hushed look.
For petrol you need Barbastro, twenty-two kilometres away. Alquézar has coffee, simple meals and a grocery that opens when it feels like it. A bottle of water and a hat are essential for a walk, and you should wear shoes with grip. In winter the ravine is cold and slippery, and in summer it can be crowded, so go early.