Standing on the shore just west of Teriberka, you are looking at the Barents Sea, and beyond it, a very long way away, the ice of the Arctic Ocean. It is an unexpectedly lively sea. Thanks to the last warm reach of the North Atlantic current, this stretch of coast stays free of ice all winter, which is why Murmansk could be built as a year-round port and why fishermen have always come here. The water teems with cod, haddock and capelin, and in summer you may see humpback or killer whales feeding offshore, with seabirds wheeling above them.
The coast itself is rocky and wild. Dark, ancient granite and gneiss rise in low cliffs and headlands, the beaches are made of pebbles and boulders rounded by the waves, and the tundra comes right down to the shore, green and brown and splashed with flowers in the brief summer. One beach near Teriberka is famous for its oval stones, smooth and egg-shaped, which visitors call dragon's eggs. Driftwood, kelp and the odd bit of fishing gear lie along the tideline.
The riding around here is short and rough. From the village, tracks head along the coast and over the hills, some passable on a capable adventure bike, others better left to walkers. Gravel, rock, sand and mud all appear within a few hundred metres, and the wind can be relentless, strong enough to push a bike sideways on exposed ground. Fog can roll in quickly, cutting visibility to a few metres. Ride slowly, stay on existing tracks to protect the fragile tundra, and do not venture too far alone.
Services are in Teriberka, a kilometre or so away, where there are cafes, guesthouses and a shop, but fuel is limited, so arrive with enough from Murmansk. Dress warmly even in summer: the temperature by the sea rarely climbs much above the low teens, and the wind chill can be sharp. Find a sheltered rock, sit for a while, and listen to the waves grinding the pebbles. In the soft light of the midnight sun, this is one of the most elemental places you can reach on a motorcycle in Europe.