Baralacha La is a pass that feels like the roof of the world, and at 4,890 metres, it nearly is. The name means the pass with crossroads on the summit, because it sits where roads from Lahaul, Zanskar and Ladakh once met. The rivers tell the story: the Chandra rises near here on the south side, and the Yunam flows north, and a few kilometres below the pass lies the clear, round lake of Suraj Tal, one of the highest lakes in India, from which the Bhaga River begins.
The riding on the Leh–Manali road is dramatic but demanding. The tarmac is mostly good on the south side, with long, graded curves, but it breaks up into gravel and mud where snowmelt streams cross it, and in places the road is a rough track. At altitude, the engine is short of air and the rider is short of breath, so go slowly, drink plenty of water and be ready to stop if your head aches. The landscape is spectacular, with red and orange mountains, snowfields and glaciers, and a huge sky. Weather can change from sun to snow in minutes, even in summer.
The pass is open only in summer, usually from around June until September or October, depending on the snow, and the road is often closed by landslides or heavy snow. Basic tented camps and tea stalls operate in summer, but they come and go, and you should carry food, water and warm clothes.
The silence on the summit is memorable. A cold wind blows over the stones, prayer flags snap, and there is a sense of being a very long way from anywhere. The Himalayan marmots whistle among the rocks, and you may see herds of sheep and goats driven up from the villages for the summer grass. Take care to rest at the lower camp, because sleeping high is when altitude sickness is most likely to hit. For a rider, it is a place that demands respect and rewards it with views that stay with you.