Barran, or Bar'ān, is the smaller companion to the great temple of Awwam, and the local name for it is Arsh Bilqis, the Throne of Bilqis. It was another sanctuary of Almaqah, the moon god of the Sabaeans, and it stood at the edge of the oasis a few kilometers from Ma'rib, where its pillars rose above the dunes. What remains today is a wall of finely cut stone and a row of tall pillars standing in front of it, silhouetted against the pale sky.
The pillars are the most striking part. They are monolithic, square in section and capped with simple tops, and they once held up a roof over the entrance hall of the temple. Beyond them, a large court with benches and an altar for offerings lay open to the sky. The temple was used over many centuries, and inscriptions on the stones preserve the names of kings and the dates of repairs. The masonry is precise and tight, and the proportions give the ruin a quiet grace.
The temple is bound up with the tradition of the Queen of Sheba. Local people call it her throne, and the name has stuck, even though archaeologists tie the temple to the moon god rather than to a historical queen. Tradition and archaeology often sit side by side in this valley, and it is a pleasure to hear a guide move easily between them.
Any account of this place must deal with the present. Ma'rib governorate is in an area of conflict, and the surrounding region has seen shelling and displacement. International advice is against travel, and a visitor, especially a rider on an independent trip, should treat the area as closed unless trusted and current local information says otherwise. It is better to read, and to wait.
Before the war, visitors reached Barran by a short drive from Ma'rib, and found fuel, tea and basic meals in town. Sunrise and sunset were the best times, when the pillars glowed amber and the sand was cool. In the middle of the day, the heat was fierce, and a scarf and water were more important than a camera.