Banff in the morning has a particular feel: cold air coming off the glacier-fed Bow River, mist clinging to Mount Rundle, and the smell of pine and woodsmoke from kitchens. The town sits in the heart of the Canadian Rockies at about 1,400 metres, hemmed in by peaks, and it exists because of hot springs. In the 1880s railway workers found warm water at Cave and Basin, and the government made the area a reserve that grew into Canada's first national park.
Today Banff is a resort town, busy and polished, and it handles tourists very well. Shops, restaurants and hotels crowd the main street, Banff Avenue, with views straight down to Cascade Mountain. The Banff Springs Hotel, a castle-like structure built by the Canadian Pacific Railway, overlooks the valley. Wildlife wanders freely: elk graze on lawns, and bighorn sheep, black bears and sometimes grizzlies appear along the roads, so take warnings seriously.
For riders, the real prize is the Bow Valley Parkway, the quieter older road to Lake Louise that runs parallel to the main highway. It has a low speed limit, wide views and a good chance of seeing animals at dawn or dusk. Parts of it close seasonally to protect wildlife, so check before heading out. A park pass is required for stops in the national park. Weather in the Rockies can change by the hour, with snow possible even in early summer, so carry warm layers and waterproofs. The best months are late June to September.
Banff has fuel, supermarkets and every sort of restaurant, though prices are high and summer weekends are crowded. Canmore, eighteen kilometres east, is a larger place with a more local feel and often cheaper options. The hot springs on the hillside are there for tired legs, and book rooms months ahead in summer.