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Băneasa - La Cetate

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Băneasa is Teleorman, and Teleorman is flat. The Wallachian plain here spreads out between the Danube, to the south, and the lower Vedea valley, with big fields, long horizons and the sort of sky that makes motorcyclists look for any rise at all. The label "La Cetate" marks one such rise, where traces of an old fortification are known locally, and the nearby "Traian - La Culă" name hints at the Roman presence that once ran across this part of southern Romania.

That Roman connection is the story here. In the second century the empire strung a line of earthworks and forts through this region, the Limes Transalutanus, running east of the Olt river toward the Danube plain, to guard the edge of the province of Dacia. Much of it is now just a faint embankment crossing a field, visible when the light is low and the crop is short.

On a bike, the area is undemanding and honest. The country roads are straight, the corners are mostly junctions into villages, and the surface runs from smooth asphalt to something that looks like it lost an argument with a tractor. Wind is the main character, especially in spring and autumn, when it gusts across open ground with nothing to stop it. In July and August the heat is heavy and shade is rare, so start early, carry water and wear light colours. Storks nest on poles in many villages, and watching them circle on warm air is one of the better free entertainments in the south of Romania.

Practical things: Băneasa itself is a small village, and so are Băduleasa and Salcia, though Salcia is slightly bigger and may have a shop. For fuel and a proper meal, aim for Peretu, about seventeen kilometres away, or the larger towns along the main road to the Danube. Gravel and dust can drift across the tarmac near fields after harvest, so go carefully on bends. If you have time, ask any elder in the village about the old fortress; people know their local rises and love to talk about them.

Read it in a ride

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