Banaue sits at about twelve hundred metres in the Cordillera mountains of northern Luzon, in a valley that has been carved, over many generations, into one of the most extraordinary landscapes on earth. The Ifugao people shaped the steep slopes into rice terraces, stone-walled steps that climb to the ridgelines in curves like the contours of a map, and the system is recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage landscape. Local tradition holds that the terraces were built two thousand years ago, though scholars argue about the date. What is certain is that they are still farmed by hand, through the cycle of planting and harvest that is celebrated with chants and rituals.
The town is a small, tidy place of about two and a half thousand people, with a few inns and cafes looking over the terraces, and tricycles, or motorised rickshaws, that carry visitors to the viewpoints. The best known terraces lie nearby at Batad, an amphitheatre of green steps reached by a steep path, and at Bangaan. Ifugao woodcarvers sell figures of the rice god, bulul, in the market, and old women in traditional dress sit at viewpoints.
For a rider, the road from Banaue toward Bontoc and Sagada is pure mountain riding. It climbs and descends through forest and farmland, with steep gradients, hairpins and spectacular views, passing through villages perched on the slopes. The surface is a mixture of concrete and asphalt, with patches that are rough or washed out after heavy rain. Landslides are common in the rainy season, so be prepared for delays. Beyond Bontoc, Sagada is known for its limestone caves and the hanging coffins that cling to the cliffs.
Fuel is the main practical concern. Banaue is small, and while there are usually pumps in the area, the larger town of Lagawe, fourteen kilometres away, is the place to fill up fully. Carry some cash, since machines are scarce. The best months are March to May, when the skies are clear, though the terraces are greenest during the wet season. Typhoons between July and October can close roads for days.