Balykchy is at the far western end of Issyk-Kul, the second-largest mountain lake in the world, and its name in Kyrgyz means fisherman. The lake, at an altitude of about 1,600 metres, is more than a hundred and eighty kilometres long and deep enough to stay ice-free in winter despite the cold, which is why its name means warm lake. The Tian Shan mountains surround it on all sides, with snow-capped peaks marching along the southern shore, and the water is a deep, saline blue that changes colour with the weather.
The town itself is gritty, a Soviet-era port and railway terminus of some forty thousand people, with wide streets, concrete blocks and a faded harbour. It once served as the gateway for goods bound for the lake's shores, and a few signs of the old Silk Road legacy can be found in nearby sites, as caravans passed through the region on their way between China and Central Asia. The main interest for a traveller is practical: Balykchy has fuel, banks, a bazaar and cafes serving plov, lagman and fried fish, and it is the place to stock up before the lake road.
The ride here has a certain drama. From Bishkek, the road climbs along the Boom Gorge, a narrow canyon of red rock, with the Chu river thundering alongside, before opening onto the Issyk-Kul basin. Wind is a notable feature, and strong gusts often blast down the gorge and across the western end of the lake, so expect to be pushed around. The road around the lake is a ring of more than six hundred kilometres, with sections of good tarmac, patched surface and occasional gravel, and the north shore is faster and busier, with resorts, while the south shore is wilder, with views of the high peaks. Livestock on the road, from cows to horses, are common, and police radar is frequent, so keep to the limits.
The best time to ride is June to September, when the lake is warm enough for a swim and the passes are open. Evenings are cold, so pack a warm layer, and sunscreen is essential at this altitude. Locals sell dried fish and fruit along the roadside, and the apricots, apples and honey are excellent. Take your time, because the lake is large, the roads are varied and the scenery rewards every kilometre.